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Sunday 9/4/11

Driver door icon
4.0 hours

What? Nearly five years since an update and your still checking? That's incredible.

Well it's been a long time since I was able to work on the Belle. Life had some pretty strong and persuasive ideas about what was gonna take my time and finances up for the last half decade.

I am so very happy and excited to be able to get back to work on the old girl.

Thank so many of you for taking the time to drop an email to me, they gave me hope and a desire to resume what should have been completed years ago.

Enough of the sappy stuff, let's see if I can still turn a wrench.

Belle as we left her 1 Belle as we left her 2

This is how we left her. Other than a new home to rust away in she is exactly where I left off in 2006. I'm a little grayer and she's a little more patinaed.

Frankly I'm disappointed no one called Overhaulin' for me and got her all pretty. Chip probably wouldn't have taken her on anyway.

Down to business. When we last met I was anxious to get the drivers rear quarter welded in place, very anxious. I've had a lot of time to think about this and came to the conclusion that the new door should be installed and adjusted first. This way I can make any adjustments to the B pillar that may be required.

Old driver door - bad

This door Bad! Needs to go away.

Door rust upper front 1 Door rust upper front 2

It's terribly rusted out at the upper front of the door, directly in front of the wing window. The lower portion of the door is surprisingly pretty good. I could have patched this and reskinned the door but I have had my fill of patching rust holes and opted for a new one instead.

New driver door

This door GOOD, get on the car!

I want to put many of the moldings and door latch on the new door to help align it with the firewall and new rear quarter. It seemed to me that it would be significantly easier to strip the old door while it was mounted to the body, than on the ground or workbench.

I'm going to remove the moldings in this order:

1. The stainless at the front of the wing window pillar.
2. The wing window itself.
3. The molding beneath the wing window.
4. The stainless that wraps around the pillar.

Looks easy enough.

Door molding overview
Phillips screws on molding

Three simple Phillips screws and one coming down from the top. This old girl must have really needed some attention as she cooperated completely and none of these screws that have been in for 54 years stripped or broke!

And it slid right off! This is too easy!

Molding removed

Next on the agenda is the wing window assembly itself, gotta get this out of the way to access the mounting screws for the other moldings.

Wing window stud bottom Wing window screws top

The wing window is held in by a stud with a nut and lock washer at the bottom (left picture) and four Phillips headed screws at the top.

Window regulator bolt

There is also a 7/16" bolt that connects the shaft for the window to the window regulator. This was also removed and carefully kicked across the floor to keep me busy for several minutes on the hunt for it.

Wing window removal 1 Wing window removal 2

Tilt the window and frame back, remove the stud from the lower brace to clear through the window opening and it's out!

Wing window out
Window screws to lower channel

The window has to come out next to allow me access to the screws for the molding below the wing window and the molding that runs across the top of the door. There are four screws holding the window to the lower channel. They also unscrewed way too easily.

Window rotated out 1 Window rotated out 2

The window is rotated and lifted out of the door, and then I removed the lower window track.

Two screws holding the molding beneath the wing window and it's free.

Molding beneath wing window
Top molding removed 1 Top molding removed 2

A few more screws and the long piece across the top of the door came loose. These moldings are in terrific condition and should only require buffing to bring them back to like new condition.

Pillar molding 1 Pillar molding 2

This piece really perplexed me at first. Two screws retained it on the rear side and it simply wrapped around the front. Because of the contour it couldn't be slid up and over the pillar. What to do?

Unwrapping pillar molding 1 Unwrapping pillar molding 2
Pillar molding removed

I found that I basically had to "unwrap" it from the pillar. I was pretty uncomfortable doing this as the piece is pristine. It all worked out ok in the end.

I thought this was kinda cool there was a 30 stamped on the inside. I have no idea what it means. If anyone knows I would love to hear from you.

30 stamped on molding
Rear window channel Window channel removed

I also want to remove the latch and transfer it to the new door temporarily. I needed to remove the rear window channel. Two bolts and it's outa the way.

Latch screws

Four screws on the latch.....

Latch removed 1 Latch removed 2

And it's laying on the floor. Ready for it's new home after a little TLC.

Door lock retainer 1 Door lock retainer 2

A twist of a screwdriver on the door lock retainer and poof! it's falling out.

Door handle removal 1 Door handle removal 2

The door handle was next. Two screws (which again miraculously came loose!) and it fell from the door.

Thats the last time this door will be on the old gal. It's time for new metal.

Last time for old door
Door cancer 1 Door cancer 2

You can clearly see how bad the cancer is on this door. Hard to believe on this car!

It's been a very long time, I'm very excited about getting back to work on this rusty hulk. I hope to sand blast (AGAIN) the inside of the rear quarter, prime and install the new piece very soon. Thanks for not giving up on me and we'll see you soon!

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